Відео

Year, make, model & engine?

Sure.

Thank you for watching!

Thank you for watching!

Thank you for watching!

The service manual has pictures of the TDC marks.

@@EXOVCDS ok....

@@EXOVCDS Spytam jeszcze, mam iskrę na świecach, paliwo jest na listwie, pasek ustawiony prawidłowo, i nie chce odpalić. Chce pracować i gaśnie. Gdzie szukać?

Thank you for watching!

Yes, under the oil filter housing... the cooler is the part with the 2 coolant hoses.

@@EXOVCDS thank you, my problem is that there is rust-colored sludge in my cooling water, but it does not consume cooling water, it does not heat up. do you have any idea what could be causing it?

You taught me well.

Whatever works.

Super funny short you posted!!! Who left it in gear??? LOL

@@EXOVCDS it's an auto and the throttle was stuck on after sitting for years. Would have kept going if the chain hadn't come off 🤣

@Badgertronix LOL

3.0L Supercharged CTU engine code.

On Eurovans, when the hall sensor goes bad it usually ends with a stalling or no start (cranks ok) situation. I have not seen one that causes misfires. It would affect all cylinders and run really rough (if at all).

@@EXOVCDS it has been missing then stalling when warm, the most recent time it wouldn’t start back up but i went back after a few days and cranked it and it fired up. I’m at a loss, have done basically everything. You have any suggestions ?

@Jkidd123 When it doesn't start, check for spark from the coil wire (remove from center of distributor cap and hold it close to a clean metal surface, have someone crank the engine with the ignition key). If you have spark, then the hall sensor is ok. If you have no spark, either the hall sensor is bad or the coil is bad. Trigger the hall sensor signal wire manually to see if the coil produces spark. If yes, then the hall sensor is bad, if no, then the coil is bad. To trigger the hall sensor signal wire... disconnect the hall sensor plug, ignition on, attach a test light to battery negative, briefly touch the tip of the test light to the middle pin of the 3 pin hall sensor wiring harness connector. Every time the test light touches the center pin, spark should jump from the coil wire.

@@EXOVCDS okay thank you i will try this. Just seems odd to me this happens when i drove it has warmed up or the temperature outside is warm. I just replaced the coil with a new one last week so i doubt it’s the coil. It’s always with light throttle pulling out it starts bucking and shuttering and missing and when i press the pedal it starts missing even worse. It almost seems like it’s down on power as well because my foot would be almost to the floor and the rpms would hardly be climbing when i was driving. The last time it did this i kept trying to limp it into a parking spot when it was acting up but it finally just would crank and not start. Came back out to it 3 days later and cranked it and it started and was able to move it into a parking spot. My only other thought is fuel pump but when fuel pumps go bad they normally don’t work at all. Is this correct ?

@Jkidd123 Like I said, I doubt it's a hall sensor issue, I'm just telling you how to eliminate it as a suspect. Most likely you have bad ignition wires or moisture in the distributor cap.

Thank you for watching!

Give it a try.

@@EXOVCDS Thank you. I am still removing the electrical connectors, and the suggestion for bundling and marking wires that go together on the same screw are valuable in your video. Also, your video is the only one that actually showed the location for that 10mm head screw underneath the windshield. Others just say: "Remove the 10mm screw". I am not a mechanic, but I do know from experience that one cannot just simply assume that everything is detached/disconnected, then start yanking things apart forcefully. My father was a machinist, and he always detested "mechanics" who cannot do diagnostics and use what he called "brute force" to remove/exchange parts just to see if that solves a problem.

Thank you for watching!

I would have to check the service manual. What plugs do you currently have in the engine?

If timing is ok, then the sensor is bad or there is wiring problem for the hall sensor.

​@@EXOVCDSya se remplazo el efecto hall revisaré el cableado espero solucionarlo muchas gracias por responder amigo

There's a metal gasket between the breather housing & engine block (part #10 in the following link / image). Anything that falls into that PCV hole, will sit at the bottom of the breather housing. The gasket has slots that prevent stuff from falling into the engine / oil pan. A narrow vacuum tube should be able to suck up what fell in. Thank you for watching! img.7zap.com/images/oem/vag3/VW/Bilder_zgd/194/194115500.png

The 3 oval slots are the pcv breather holes for the crankcase. The other holes are covered by the breather housing & engine block. Oil passages.

All engines have this as a possibility... short distance stop & go driving is the main reason (IMHO). I don't know the ring design of all VW & Audi engines, so I can't say which engines would be more prone to this from day one. This engine, as well as all the 2.0L chain engines up to 2012, have oil control rings with TINY holes. It doesn't take much for these holes to plug up and then oil burning / usage increases quickly. If your 05 isn't using much oil, keep doing what you're doing. Thank you for watching!

@@EXOVCDS thank you Thomas!

That's good. You probably have good driving habits.

@@EXOVCDS I left mine open

Most / all magnetic rings are not visible when installed... hence, the demonstration on a work bench. I don't know how much is visible on the 308. When the magnet can not be visually inspected for defects, using an oscilloscope to view sensor waveform is the next step.

ca.jbtools.com/otc-3054e-noid-lite-set-8-plus-idle-air-signal-test-kit/ Google search the part number that's on your ECU... to find used or refurbished units.

@@EXOVCDS thanks for the quick reply!

@stevemagnuson7051 Thank you for watching!

A small 1/8" / 3mm hole can be left open, but it will leave oil on the floor wherever you park. Plug the hole with a small screw... after draining the cooler.

@@EXOVCDS I see a little oil on the spoiler when I get done driving it to work

@RonnieYoung-zx8wu Some intercooler have a problem with condensing water / water collecting in the cooler. The result is similar to oil collecting... can cause misfires during acceleration.

This was for demonstration. The cooler is no longer used.

@@EXOVCDS when I drilled my cooler I put grease around the drill

Notch the race with a cutting wheel and then split it with a chisel. Some "bearing splitters" can grab the race at the edge and then it can be pressed off.

Year, model? Is the metal tube (that the clutch cable slides into) at the firewall loose?

@@EXOVCDS 99' vw caddy. I have no metal tube at the firewall, just a hole that the cable goes down through to pedal. Thanks for the quick reply.

@mozza535 The cable needs to be supported. Can you post a video of how the cable attaches / goes through the firewall? The other possibility is that the clutch pedal "over center" spring is broken or has popped out of place.

Must have had several... top end looked clean.

@@EXOVCDS interesting. Faulty piston ring design ?

It was bad.

@@EXOVCDSdid you removed the motor support or just the mount(rubber)? I’m doing this on the ground and is a Pain 😩😂

I’m doing this on a 2.0 16v abf

​@Kegels_gti_16V As you can see in the video... on the vr6 engine, the front engine mount / bracket does not need to be touched. On the 2.0L engines, the bracket needs to be moved out of the way. Support the engine from under the oil pan or from the top... and remove the front engine mount bracket.

@@EXOVCDS I succeeded the installation, but no luck, still bad idle when the rpm’s drop after cold start

It's only an issue when short distance/ stop & go driving is the daily norm for the engine. Regular extended high rpm & boost keeps the oil from collecting. Thank you for watching!

Dealer recommended oil change interval & short trips would be my guess.

We're making a list of stuff for the customer. Ring groove isn't big enough for different style of ring (as far as I know). Thank you for watching!

Thank you for watching!

Hi Terry, thanks for watching!

Yes, service manual says to lower the engine on that side and move the engine forward. It's a serpentine belt pry bar, to which I attached a 15mm crows foot. otctools.com/sites/default/files/styles/vt_commerce_image_large/public/4645.jpg?itok=S3N3Uwg9 It doesn't grab the tensioner 100% slip free, but it does the job. If I find the dealer tool, I'll post a link here.

@@EXOVCDS I clicked on your link and I was not able to find the tool shown in the picture.

@briancollins3177 Google search: "Serpentine Belt Tool" to find a similar tool. When I search, I only get Canadian results. It's best if you search yourself, than me supply you with a link. Most of the time for the Eurovan 2.5L engines, the tool may not even be needed (sorry, I forgot to mention that earlier). Just grab the belt on either side of the PS pump pulley and pull on the belt... pull it over the PS pump pulley. MIND YOUR FINGERS!!! =)

@@EXOVCDS yes I tried pulling on the belt in front of the AC compressor and nothing was budging,… That said there might be a better angle of attack when the vehicle is up in the air on a lift my van is on the ground and I’m laying on cardboard underneath it

I've had to fight my fair share. Thank you for watching!